The final day ... Santiago at last.

Woke up and thought we were still dreaming, that we were in lovely big soft white beds with ensuite baths. Brekkie was served and many condiments were poached for later use. Everyone ready to be driven back to the camino except for eileen.who had been visited by a sneaky sock thief. Much rummaging and cursing of foreign and uncharitable pilgrims ensued until eileen realised she had put them in her side pocket.

Pilgrims set off in torrential rain, many parts of camino flooded meaning detours through waist high wet grass. Everyone was soaked to the skin; after 10 k the rain let up so we stopped for outfit change and caffes con leche. Kita put on fetching outfit of anorak, hotpants, socks pulled up to knees and a towel turban. Merry pilgrims set off again, radio pilgrim in full force. Sun shining intermittently. After another 10 k stopped for shortest lunch of the week, at labacolla the place where pilgrims traditionally stopped to wash themselves before entering santiago. Boccadillos and ice cream and the pilgrims were off again. Downpour started again abd therefore pilgrims were unable to see the spires of santiago from the mount of joy and instead were almost blown away. However rain was worth it for the sight of eileen hobbling down hill in enormous black hooded poncho, stick and backpack hump, occasionally cackling after the odd shot of whisky for the pain. Children ran screaming into their houses as she passed.

Pilgrims getting increasingly cold and wet, expecting to see cathedral at every turn, nerves on edge. Enter city outskirts around 5. After an hour finally reached cathedral, what a sight. Pilgrims fell into pews, emotions were running high, legs will never be running again.

Made way through sopping streets to pilgrim office where nice lady behind counter refused to believe that we had walked such a way in such a short time. Espefially young pilgrim liam. Consulted maps and tables but in the end a combo of liam's conscientious stamp collection and one look at eileen was enough to convince them we had done it, and we were granted our compostelas.

Trudged to hotel where hot baths much appreciated. Celebrated with lovely evening meal.

We would just like to thank everyone for their support throughout the whole pilgrimmage, it has kept us going at times when we thought we couldn't take another step. And a huge thank you to all those who have so generously sponsored us. Here endeth the blog. Adios.
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BREAKING NEWS!!!

Just wanted to let avid blog readers know that we have arrived! All pilgrims accounted for .. Safe and sound but very tired and currently bathing! More later!
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Day 25 ... Casanova (close by!) to Calle/Arca (also close by!)

Well.. Our luck just keeps arriving by the truckload. We are pretty sure someone out there is walking the camino with us. A lovely stay in 2 rooms of bunk beds which on the Refugio rating of excellence were an 11 and this does not do them justice. Slept so well that the promise of an early start was slightly scuppered by the comfort and lack of non-english europeans (note lack of specific nationalities!) moving around at 4am and bursting into laughter by 6am ... Ahh our fellow perigrinos are so amusing sometimes...
Anyway, despite a rushed breakfast and a shuttle back to the camino we joined the "rush hour" of pilgrims which now have swelled by the tourist crowd. You can tell a tourist pilgrim because their clothes are clean, their boots look new and they smell nicer! Also they continually stretch their muscles and cheer whenever they get to the top of any small incline... We must become more gracious pilgrims.. Probably will kick in by tomorrow!
So off we went - pilgrim eileen out in front setting the pace.. After 10km we fell into the trap of an internet café that did fresh orange and doughnuts.. Probably stayed too late there but it was nice to send out some of the photos and stuff - and the doughnuts were memorable!
This part of spain is becoming more and more like surrey with every mile. Although there are forests of eucalyptus trees here which are amazing .. Very tall and silver in colour. The lanes are all leafy, very little road travelling today and only small hamlets to divide up the walk. Beautiful country all around us still.
Had to stop for lunch at the nearest café to refuel the tired and struggling pilgrims at Arzua. But wasn't until late afternoon. Trip to local tourist office told us that there was no accomodation for next 20kms... Ooops. Next stop was a large refugio but even seasoned pilgrims would struggle with this distance late into the night. Trust was placed into relevant hands and off we went with the hope of something appearing during the next few kms.. PJ no longer stressed at this prospect so something has changed!
Rain pouring down and with ponchos on we trooped onwards. Two small bars seemed best option as it approached 8pm. Lynda bumped into a door by accident causing small Gallegan woman (all wear same blue head scarf!) bearing kitchen knife only to confirm our accommodation needs would not be met until 8kms or more.
Then this luck thing kicks in.. PJ notices 4 inch wide sign saying "bar 100m" on side of house pointing indiscriminately .. Turns out to be on main rd. Pidgeon spanish concluded that we have beds in a beautiful renovated casa rural.. Baths included in room, large sitting rooms 17th century .. Heaven for pilgrims who smell as nice as the tourists now!.
Wee bean is now cruising at top speed, PL (smallest pilgrim) has walked twice as far as anyone else and keeps getting many "bravo nino" from admiring spaniards .. Pilgrim Sammy uncomplaining and fit as a fiddle keeps sally occupd ed with the memory games! PK knackered but in full song with every km.
Although left with a longer stretch than we planned and a bit of a complicated start we are excited at the prospect of walking into santiago tomorrow after such a long walk. Goodnight from a very rainy galicia 30km from Santiago xx
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Day 24 - Portomarin to Casanova (wink wink)

Started off with again, best breakfast so far. John cooked up scrambled eggs, fresh bread, cakes, coffees, hot chocolates... pilgrim paradise. Started our morning walk to Gonzar, which was 5 km away. Walk went through many stinky fields - there are far too many cows in this part of Spain. Progress was slow as pilgrims suffering from aches and pains, and also the sun was very hot early on. Stopped for a coffee in a not very nice roadside cafe, where pilgrims, both old and new, looked down on the tourists who started from the exact 100 km mark to Santiago, just to get their compostela. However, seem to be attracting a lot of attention ourselves as no one else is travelling in such a large family group. Up and down the camino, there are rumours of the four sisters led by a single male.

Plodded on to Eirexe where we stopped for lunch, passing through many small villages and some beautiful countryside. Sadly for Eileen, many up and down hills. But we all had a really lovely lunch on top of a hill. Sammie especially enjoyed Sally´s pizza and Liam had bocadillo size of head. Eileen "enjoyed" cheesecake without the biscuit base, much to Sue´s disgust.

Suitably fortified after much red wine, we began the long afternoon walk. We had 20 km to go to Casanova so we stormed through Palas de Rey, where it began to rain. Ignoring the wise old Spanish lady who told us to stop in the town as there were no beds further on, we plunged in to the woods. Started to get dark. There were fears of lions and tigers and bears oh my. Each village we went through was full, no camas - note to pilgrims: listen to wise old Spanish ladies.

However, lucky break - met v nice English-speaking Spanish couple who contacted an off-route refugio for us. The hospitalero picked us up in groups on 4 in his car and drove us the 2 km to his brand spanking new refugio, with hot showers and good meals. Old pilgrims think new pilgrims have very mistaken idea of what refugios are actually like. Sammie and Liam enjoyed plates of eggs and chips (v happy petites pilgrims) which was well deserved as they had both walked all day without complaint. All exhausted, everyone fell into very comfortable beds. A bit too comfortable as some pilgrims overslept this morning.

day 23 - samos to portomarin

picture the scene. as soon as they are awake the 3 sisters move as one to eileen´s bunk to see how she is and find her lying down with her sheet up to her chin. "i think i need a doctor she says" and as all the sisters begin to gasp in horror, eileen suddenly cries "a head doctor!" and then leaps out of bed to do a little jig. turns out she had been up since half five as well though that was because she was sleeping next to a whale - who also woke everyone in the refugio at one point in the night when he started screaming in his sleep.

pilgrims set off by 8, had a little coffee and went on our way. no breakfast so had lunch at sarria at 12. a little pilgrim named irene lobbed bread at john´s and it landed in the curtain, shocking the waitress a little bit, but he deserved it. on our way, stopped at top of sarria to go in church and get a stamp. eileen got new knees at the farmacia and became a new pilgrim.

long slog ahead, stopped at various bars on way to portomarin - all pilgrims feeling the pain. portomarin reached half nine - a town that had been moved brick by brick up the mountain from the valley. surrounded by water, superb views and setting sun but pilgrims couldn´t care less. luckily was the best refugio pilgrims have stayed in so far - very clean, warm water, lots of beds etc lynda cooked up some pasta, eileen was the laundry fairy. all collapsed into bed.

Some pics from the last few days ...

... struggling to get on the road so will text up some stories from yesterday!!

This is O´cebreiro as the early morning mist lifting .. random tourists wouldn´t move!

This is entering Galicia ... told you it was a long hill!

below .. flying pilgrims = wasn´t that windy ... good actors

Day 22 (from Perfidita and..) O'Cerbreiro to Samos Monestry

First blog for kita! please note its superiority to sallys plebian musings. All out by 7 this morning; no mean feat when sharing a bathroom between nine. Walked 4k back to oc where we had coffee oj and toast. Started on the camino; new pilgrims very excited; though tonight are started to realise why old pilgrims are jaded. Walked till about 12 then stopped for drink where nice old lady gave sammy and liam lollipops and almost gave one to kita until she found out she was 21 and proceeded to fall over in shock, much to kita's mortification. Weather very fine and pilgrims feeling optimistic. Started walking to tricastela where we would have lunch. En route pilgrims passed through a hamlet and a little old lady named carmen fed us all cold pancakes sprinkled with sugar yum yum. Unfortunately got separated by herd of largest cows ever seen by man; poor cows were being very indiscriminately prodded in the backside by a llittle old spanish man yelling vaci. That is cows plural in spanish. This blog is for your education and pleasure. Buckleys managed to get through the herd but others got stuck behind them and did not reconvene until 3 when we had lunch in tricastela. Buckleys set off earlier as they got to lunch first and started on way to samos promising to sort out accomodation. Was supposedly 9k but must have been much longer as it took 3 hours for buckleys to get here. Accomodation is large refugio dorm in monastery. Buckley pilgrims went to 8 mass, just in time! Was lovely monastery. Lots of singing monks. Kita was mortified though when she fell asleep standing up and almost smashed her face on pew in front. She was also shocked to find the fam were so familiar with the spanish mass, they have obviously been spending too much time in churches and not enough in bars. Theory still stands as I am typing this blog instead of having a cervesa across the street. Other pilgrims arrived at ten; very weary though liam and sam were still bouncy enough to run down the last hill! New pilgrims very worried about how they will feel in the morning, very achey and weary as it is now and fear the early morning stiffness. Hopefully less walking tomorrow though. Buenos noches. PK
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