Thursday, 7 June 2007

Day 19: San Justa to Fondebacon (from a computer KBR would have thrown out in the 80´s)

Day started with our very own unfriendly barman serving Pat a very nice cup of coffee. Left the uninspiring village of San Justa and walked 3.5 km to Astorga, where we enjoyed a lovely breakfast of fried toast, fried dounuts, fried churros and an only slightly battered croissant. However, Astorga was actually a beautiful city with a really amazing cathedral (mucho gold) and bishop´s palace.

Actually started hard-core walking at half 9 again and the sun was already high. V hot, sweaty walk. Sally had to call in the hotpants even earlier than usual but v cross with all cyclists passing who always ask if she has enough suncream on. She is going as brown as fast as she can thank you very much.

After about 5 km, reached the small hamlet of Murias where we all had to stop for a drink. God sent us a direct sign that we should not carry our bags for the rest of the day - there was a small notice on the wall that advertised the fact that a very nice man would take all our bags up the mountain for us for €12. Relieved of their load, the pilgrims set off jauntily, whistling and laughing. This lasted all of 5 minutes because it was too hot to whistle.

Trudged up gentle slopes all morning until we reached another village with a cowboy bar - cue John whistling the Magnificent Seven theme tune and walking like John Wayne. Enjoyed fabulous meal of pasta in tomato sauce. Suitably refreshed, pilgrims plodded on.

Reached the town of Rabanal around half past 3, where we swiftly made our way to the only English refugio on the whole camino. Lynda extremely delighted to discover that the served tea at 4 o clock, accompanied by Maria biscuits. All we needed were cucumber sandwiches and we could have been in Dorset. Spent lovely couple of hours in freshly mown garden, where John lovingly read to Lynda all the goings-on in the Archers from the past 3 weeks. I think they are suffering from England-withrawal symptoms.

We then had a quick but very nice meal in another hostal before rushing into vespers, which was sung by monks. Sally v embarrasse because not only fell into the church as it was starting, but also, had sent all decent clothes on in bag ahead, so had to go to the service in aforementioned hotpants. Monks were very glaring. Sally hopes this is not a bad omen.

Then we had a v quick 6 km walk up the mountain. John, who says he can´t walk v fast because will hurt legs, raced up because he was (overly) worried about darkness falling at 8.30. Anyway, we are in a nice pension at the top of a mountain, very at one with nature. A storm in brewing, thunder and lightening a bit too close for comfort, but we are hoping it will clear for the morning.

6 comments:

KevinT said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
KevinT said...

You can't end the chapter there Sal! Did you get your bags back? Was Manuel really a bag snatcher who you paid? Are you doomed to hot hot pants for the rest of the trip? Oooh can't wait for the next installment.

Anonymous said...

So proud of you. Luckily its only my mind which is walking with you, and not my feet! (and not my english)Send all my love and i suppose you dont want german songs! Love saskia*

Anonymous said...

so glad you enjoyed the biscuits i sent you. sally i bet the monks were secretly impressed with your hot pants. pat im so pleased that all those walks with robbie really paid off, apart from the one in the resevoir, you were quite right that all that walking up and down the wards was enough practice. lynda "climb every mountain" seems a good song, and didnt you realise that John was named after John Wayne.we are looking forward to reading the next blogs after the rest of the flock have joined you. best foot foward, lots of love the Weirs x x x

Anonymous said...

Hi all

Can't believe Sally is flashing her hot pants at monks! I am not concerned though as if I know anything about Sally I know they would be very stylish hot pants and style absolves all sins.
Mum is bringing lots of lyrics to sing a long songs (thank goodness my ears are safe!).

Keep up the good work. We are so proud

Lots of love

Dawn

Noble said...

God bless the holy hotpants!